How To Wear Scarvers

by Penny on May 18, 2010

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As I’ve opined countless times, scarves are my absolute favorite accessory. I love them more than hats, jewelry, bags…even shoes. They make any almost outfit better; more chic, pulled together or perfectly effortless. They’re 100% functional and, unlike most accessories, there are countless ways to wear them. And, they do not discriminate; every culture, society and community has their own way of personalizing and utilizing what we call scarves.

Some scarves pop while others add to a neutral palette. PC: The Sartorialist & All The Pretty Birds

Scarves, in their purest form, are a deceptively simple square of fabric. Nothing more, nothing less. They’ve evolved from scraps of material used to soak up sweat from the brow to symbols of wealth and status. Basic construction aside, people will splurge on luxury scarves both for quality (such as White + Warren or Tse cashmere) and design (Pucci and, of course, Hermes come to mind).

I love that you can find scarves anywhere, from flea markets and street vendors to the accessories department at Barney’s. You can pick up a $13 scarf from H&M or splurge hundreds of dollars on a McQueen scull print design.

Types Of Scarves

The smallest scarves are what some may consider handkerchiefs or pocket squares. Men often wear them tucked into a jacket pocket. However, these small, square pieces of fabric may also be used in a woman’s hair or tied around her wrist.

Larger square scarves can range from 16 to 48 (or larger) inches square. Smaller square neck scarves are a classic, simply knotted at the neck or tied loosely onto a purse. The larger the squares grow, the more versatile they become. You’ll also see more variety in fabrications; light, sheer cotton for summer and cashmere/silk blends for winter.

Small and medium-sized square silk scarves lend themselves to classic styling as perfected by style icons Grace and Audrey. PC: Google Images

My favorite scarf type is the large square, and my favorite way to wear it is in (what I call) a western style. When styling this type of scarf, always start with a diagonal fold to ensure length and thin, tapered ends. These scarves also look great simply draped over the shoulders or lightly twisted and thrown around the neck. They are also a perfect size for turbans.

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A cowl “western” wrap-around, using a light, large square scarf. PC: The Sartorialist

Oblong scarves are great for accessorizing (on the small end) and keeping cozy (on the large end). This proportion of scarf seems to provide more variation in fabrication and weave; you’ll often find open weave and fringe scarves in the small oblong style, while ultra-soft wool is common in the large oblong style. The simplest way to wear these scarves is, of course, doubled or looped around the neck. This style is most popular among men, who seem to opt for the classic short wool oblong scarf with a simple fringe during the winter months.

Abbey Lee Kershaw wears an oblong scarf simply looped around the neck. PC: Altamira

The short, oblong wool scarf (with or without fringe) in a classic key-hole knot is an easy look for men. PC: The Sartorialist

Long skinny scarves work in a multitude of ways, as headbands, belts/sashes, modified ascots or neck ties. This style is an excellent way to add a pop of color or interesting pattern to an outfit.

Long, skinny scarves knotted & tied. PC: The Sartorialist & Mr. Newton

Sienna Miller expertly styles her whisper-thin long scarves. PC: Google Images

Wraps and shawls are wonderful during the colder months, when they can be wrapped around the neck or draped over the shoulders for warmth. Wraps in light fabrics (like pashmina, a blend of cashmere and silk) are an ideal companion for travel, as they are incredibly lightweight but very warm. Wraps and shawls can also be used as decor, thrown over the arm of a chair or foot of the bed. Conversely, very light blankets may be utilized as an accessory.

Hanneli modifies a blanket from her house as a cozy belted wrap jacket. PC: HM

An extra-large oblong shawl worn two ways. PC: The Sartorialist

I consider the sarong to be the summer cousin to the wrap. While they are most often tied around the waist or body during pool time, I also wear mine around my neck or shoulders.

How To Wear Scarves

The most important thing to remember when styling with scarves is to keep it simple and avoid perfection. The great thing about scarves is that they read better the more “thrown on” and sloppy they appear, and they communicate an effortlessness that is always attractive. Also important, wear scarves (in fact, this applies to all clothing) in such a way that you are comfortable. If you’re uncomfortable, you’ll end up fidgeting. Don’t force a scarf if it’s not working. I happen to think a light scarf paired with a tank and shorts in the summer is appropriate if you’re the tiniest bit chilly, but don’t throw on a heavier scarf in the heat simply because you like the way it looks.

Take it easy! Scarves look better when thrown on without much thought. PC: The Sartorialist

As for the scarf design itself, there are absolutely no rules. Go as classic or kooky as you like! Scarves are an easy way to try out difficult trends like statement colors or mixing patterns.

Following are some brief tutorials on how to wear scarves in a variety of ways. If I have some time in the coming days, I may add some how-to photos. Remember, have fun!

Neck

  • Tied and knotted around the neck. If using a square scarf, fold it corner-to-corner on the diagonal and continue folding the tip by the inch toward the long seam of the scarf until you end up with what looks like a croissant before it’s rolled into a crescent shape. Alternatively, you can simply gather and twist the scarf lengthwise. The former will look neater, the latter more casual. Knot the scarf where it feels comfortable. Short, oblong scarves may also be used around the neck.
  • Triangle tied around the neck. Fold a small square scarf corner-to-corner on the diagonal. Tie each corner at the back of the neck; a looser tie will result in a more cowled triangle.
  • “Western” style looped around the neck. Fold a large square scarf corner-to-corner on the diagonal. Drape the scarf, the length-wise folded portion facing forward, across the shoulders. Holding the ends, pull to one side and wrap the longer side loosely around the neck, bringing the end around the back and to the front. You may need to adjust to ensure both scarf ends are even and that the cowl is comfortable. You can leave the ends loose or tuck under the cowl.
  • Wrapped around and bowed. Wrap a medium to large square or oblong scarf around the neck a few times and secure in a tie or bow at the front.
  • Simply draped around the neck. Fold a large square scarf corner-to-corner, loosely twist and drape around the neck.
  • Looped around the neck. Use the same method described above, looping around the neck once and allowing either end of the scarf to hang evenly. Alternatively, use a large oblong scarf.
  • Looped and knotted around the neck. With a large oblong scarf, loop around the neck as described above but take the hanging ends and tie in a loose knot or bow.
  • Keyhole looped around the neck. Fold a medium to large oblong scarf cross-wise at the center and hold at each end. Place evenly behind the neck and tuck the two ends into the hole created by the cross-wide fold.
  • Ascot. This can be done in a number of ways, from a skinny scarf in a loose knot at the center of the neck to the more formal approach.

Clockwise from left: western, long and loose, wrapped and tied at the neck. PC: Street Peeper & The Sartorialist

An over-sized ascot. PC: The Sartorialist

Hair & Head

  • Simple headband. If using a square scarf, fold it corner-to-corner on the diagonal and continue folding the tip by the inch toward the long seam of the scarf until you end up with what looks like a croissant before it’s rolled into a crescent shape. Wrap the scarf around the head a few inches back from the temple, ensuring that the folded tip is on the underside. Tie securely at the nape of the neck or, for a longer scarf, behind the ear.
  • Over-sized headband. Use the same method described above, but fold the scarf only once or twice, allowing a width of 4 to 6 inches.
  • Knotted or bowed headband. Use a larger scarf and the method described above, but instead of knotting at the nape of the neck, wrap around the head again and knot, tie or bow at the top or side of the head.
  • Convertible wrap. Fold an extra-large square scarf corner-to-corner on the diagonal. Holding the two end corners, place the length-wide folded portion of the scarf evenly just behind the hairline. The two end corners will hang over the ears, down past the shoulders. Cross the two end corners in front and pull behind the head, securing in a knot.
  • Head wrap. I call this the Rhoda Morgenstern style. Begin as you would with the convertible wrap (above), but place the length-wide folded portion of the scarf evenly across the forehead. Instead of crossing the two end corners in front, bring them to the back and tie in a knot just above the nape of the neck.
  • Babushka style. Begin as you would with the convertible wrap (above), but tie in a knot at the front, under the chin.
  • Turban. I will direct you to this online tutorial on how to create a classic wrap turban.
  • Low bun wrap. Follow the same process as with the turban, but instead of wrapping the ends of the scarf around the head, create large knots at the base of the neck.

An over-sized headband worn low across the forehead and two bowed styles. PC: Garance Doré, The Sartorialist & HC

Babushka and large headband styles. PC: Google Images

Accessorized

  • Tied onto a bag or purse. Make sure the scarf is not too large, and simply knot it onto a strap or piece of hardware. Works on countless styles of bags.
  • Tucked into a blazer pocket. Traditional and sophisticated. Don’t think this look is strictly for men!
  • Around the wrist. Tie into a mini-sized square scarf into a knot. A small to medium-sized square scarf may be wrapped around the wrist multiple times.
  • Around the ankle or on shoes. Tie one onto your ankle as described above, or swap out the leather straps on a pair of summer wedges with thin, small scarves.
  • Tied to a hat. Cute on many styles, from structured fedoras to floppy straw hats!
  • Worn as a belt. Twist and loop a long, thin scarf through the belt-loops of your jeans. Tie in the back for a clean line, allow the ends to hang at the front of your hip or tie into a loose bow. Scarves can also be worn at the natural waist as a belt closure for a wrap sweater or trench-style coat. Tie the scarf in a clean knot at the front of use a large scarf to create an obi-belt effect.
  • Worn as a top. Large square scarves can be worn as a halter top, as perfected by Hermes. Hold the scarf by two corners and tie behind the neck, creating a cowl at the neckline. Gather the other two corners and tie at the lower back. Extra-large square scarves and sarongs can be wrapped and secured as a strapless top.
  • Worn as a skirt. Extra-large square scarves and sarongs can be worn as skirts, simply wrapped around the hips and secured or corner-folded and tied at the hip, exposing one thigh. It’s typically considered a beach look, but a beautiful scarf paired with a simple, black scoop ballerina-style bodysuit and flats looks chic enough for casual entertaining. Just make sure the scarf is large enough to wrap around the body at least once…no exposed thighs!
  • Gift wrapping. Square scarves are a fabulous (and eco-friendly) way to wrap up a small gift.

Scarves worn as a halter and tied onto the wrist. PC: Hermes & The Life Aesthetic

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{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Jess May 18, 2010 at 5:23 pm

This is an excellent post! I love scarves too. I have a bunch of oblong ones in tons of colors and some patterns. My fave way to wear them is to loosely cross it behind the neck. It is so simple and chic without looking like I’m trying hard.

I want to get an infinity scarf next

2 KateSouth May 18, 2010 at 7:10 pm

Love love love scarves. I also happen to need more at the moment. I find myself most drawn to the small oblong scarves and usually do the keyhole style of folding/draping or tie it around my purse if I end up too hot. They really do help any outfit and are functional as well as fashionable!

3 cp May 18, 2010 at 7:36 pm

as silly as it sounds, i sometimes have trouble getting scarves (which i love) to drape the way i want. so this is a great tutorial, thank you.

4 Whitney May 18, 2010 at 8:46 pm

Great post, Penny! Scarves have become such a wardrobe staple for me that I almost have trouble leaving the house without one looped around my neck or stuffed into my bag for later. You’ve given me some new ideas to try…thanks!

5 gylinne May 19, 2010 at 12:55 am

Great post. I have recently bought a scraf from http://fashionkashmir.com and was wondering how to wear the woolen shawl – as its quite larger and more fuller thatn normal
_ great post !!!

6 elizabeth May 19, 2010 at 6:46 am

I LOVE scarves–I have a small collection of Hermes pocket squares (my preferred luxury indulgence, as I’ll share the solid color ones with my husband when he wears suits), and I have a few APC cotton ones as well that I love in the summertime.

This is a fabulous post–I can always use more ideas on what to do with them, so thanks!

7 Robin May 19, 2010 at 11:27 am

I am so excited about this. I have been acquiring a number of lovely scarves lately, but I feel like I always do the same thing with them. Thanks so much!

8 LC May 19, 2010 at 12:47 pm

These are great suggestions. I am a big scarf/shawl wearer; it really does pull a look together. Usually I go for a pop of color (hot pinks, rust reds, apple greens), but I’ve been recently doing more neutrals (silvery gray scarf, dark beige). I usually go for oblong scarves, and the looped or keyhole around the neck are my go-to styles. I find moving from winter to summer is more a matter of fabric than styling (less wool, more sheer silks and rayons). And the scarf on the purse is a great way to either carry a scarf that you won’t need until later, or to add a little more color and interest to the bag.

One more way of wearing scarves is what I think of as “dupatta-style” — draped across the chest with the ends trailing back over the shoulders. It’s great for a super-sheer scarf, something that will give a bit of a float when you move. Just don’t try to wear it in a strong wind — it will blow right off.

9 Claudia May 19, 2010 at 1:49 pm

I always love how they look on people (except for the long skinny variety, just not my thing) but my problem is I hate to have stuff up around my neck. I also can never wear turtle necks. Oh well….Cool post.

10 J.D.Regent May 19, 2010 at 4:17 pm

This is great and so helpful. The turban is one I am still trying to master — thanks for the tutorial link! I wear scarves more days than not and they usually end up migrating around, starting on my neck, then my waist, then my wrist, then my head, then my bag…they have been a lifesaver while growing my hair out and are a great cheap way to freshen up old outfits. Super easy to thrift shop source!

11 Kimberly Sullivan May 25, 2010 at 12:22 am

Hi Kari,
I love this “How to wear scarves” article. I wear one every day, so am always looking for a better way to wear one. I agree, they look better when they have a thrown on look!
You look great, hope you are feeling good as well. I will check in with you again.
XO, K

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